----Home Prepared Dog and Cat Diets: The Healthful Alternative by Donald R. Strombeck, DVM, PhD, Iowa State University Press, 1999. This is an informative scientifically referenced book examining the failings of commercial grain-based foods and the diseases caused by them; unfortunately the computer generated analyzed diets included are, ironically, high in grains. Still this is a very worthwhile read, with info on special diets for medical conditions.

----K9 Kitchen  Your Dog's Diet: The Truth Behind The Hype, by Monica Segal, pub. Doggie Diner 2002. Useful fact-based information, some of which is important and missing in some very popula books. Has a few analyzed sample diets, but the author feels diets need individual tailoring so doesn't include many. The author has an on-paper (not chemical) diet analysis company, and monitors the excellent email chat list K9Kitchen through Yahoogroups.
     http://www.monicasegal.com/

----Optimal Nutrition: Raw and Cooked Diets: the next level, By Monica Segal, Pub. Doggie Diner, Toronto 2007. Feeding info for pregnancy, lactation, puppies, and for specific diseases.

----Wendy Volhard's Natural Diet For A Healthy Dog, 1984, 1997. This is an analyzed diet, uses grains and a lot of calcium supplementation which may not be ideal for large breed puppies, but has been in use for over 25 years.

----Information regarding feeding large breed puppies: Dr. Daniel C. Richardson, Director, Advanced Research Hill's Pet Nutrition, Inc., Topeka, Kansas, has written several excellent papers.  Papers by others are in the puppy feeding section below. Recent work by Dr. Richardson at Hills Science Diet indicates that absolute amounts of calcium fed are more important than the exact calcium:phosphorus ratio is, and that too much calcium and too much total energy can cause problems for large breed puppies. High protien levels are not in themselves a cause of these developemental bone problems. This is a must-read for those raising large-breed puppies. Here is a
link for the Richardson and Toll article on calcium, diet, and large breed puppy growth:

      Relationship of Nutrition to Developmental Skeletal Disease in Young Dogs

----Canine and Feline Skeletal Growth Disorders. Copyright Hill's Pet Nutrition, 1999. This is a collection of papers reproduced by Hills with the permission of the authors and the respective journals in which they were first published. These are excellent, and the most fact-based information on feeding large breed puppies. The above linked paper by Richardson and Toll is included here in it's entirely. Available from Hill's, I regard this as a must-have for those raising large breed puppies.

----Raw Meaty Bones, by Tom Lonsdale, 2001, Rivetco P/L, Australia. Not a "how to feed" book, analyzed diets, (suggests following the "prey model" which I think is not too useful for most people) but a fascinating story about Dr. Lonsdale's gradual recognition of the health problems caused by kibble and his attempts to gain recognition and acknowledgement of these problems by the Australian Veterinary Association.

----Nutrient Requirements of Dogs, National Acadamies Press Online at
     http://www.nap.edu/books/0309034965/html/   This is a helpful reference regarding vitamin and mineral needs of both adults and puppies. Good information regarding each nutrient; food values chart. There is a 1985 version commonly available at used book stores; there is an updated 2006 version that is rather expensive. Some of the information in it is reproduced in Monica Segal's book Optimal Nutrition.

----Nutrition Almanac, by Kirschmann and Kirrschmann, 1996 McGraw-Hill. Useful reference, nutrient information and food values chart.

----Nutrition of the Dog and Cat, Waltham Symposium #7, 1989. More technical papers, good information on gestation and carbohydrates in the diet.

----Manual of Companion Animal Nutrition and Feeding,ed. Kelly Will

----USDA Food Values Index----http://www.nal.usda.gov/fnic/foodcomp/

Helpful email lists---K9Kitchen@yahoogroups.com
For the bookstore with everything dog, click here:  Dogwise
Our health links page------HealthLinks   This page has links to info about the following: Laryngeal Paralysis; Torsion (Gastric Dilation and Vovlulus); Raw Diet Effects on Bloodwork Values---Dr. Jean Dodds; Bloodwork--Puppy Values; Developmental Bone Diseases of Rapid Growth.

----Wood end-grain cutting block and good quality knife (for chopping certain veggies, cutting up organ meats, and separating chicken quarters at joints).

----Freezer.

----For puppies--manual or electric meat grinder for grinding meat and organ mix, sometimes with chicken quarters included, for puppies too young to chew bones (before getting 2^nd  teeth). We use a large, old-fashioned hand grinder. If muscle and organ  meat is used with no chicken quarters added, this may not be needed, as you can chop and mince the meats by hand, but the grinder can still be helpful.

MUSCLE MEATS----Beef, pork, turkey, deer, elk, cubed pieces or ground; tongue, heart (beef and pig---nutrient profile is more like an organ meat so use should be restricted), feed cubed.  Muscle meats are lacking in calcium by themselves. Add 1 teaspoon calcium carbonate or ground eggshell per pound of muscle meat and veggie mix, or use a calcium supplement, particularly if consumable bones are not given often. Muscle meat, veggies and grains are all low in calcium and high in phosphorus and calcium must be added to help balance them. The NRC Guide will enable you to calculate how much calcium your dog needs each day for his or her wieght. (More info on adding calcium below.)
IMPORTANT TO NOTE: We have found that though many raw diets rely heavily on chicken which is easy to get and inexpensive, our dogs have done better with a larger proportion of red meats. Therefore we advise using at least 50% red meats, as opposed to using all chicken.  Chicken is low in zinc, copper, iron, and Vitamin B12 so pay particular attention to them if you use exclusively chicken, which we do not recommend. Beef and pork organ meats help to compensate for the deficiencies in chicken.

ORGAN MEATS
IMPORTANT TO NOTE---These are rich in vitamins and minerals not found in high levels in muscle meats or veggies, so they can't be skipped, neither should they be overfed.

----Kidney, liver, thymus and other sweetbreads, spleen. Due to it's nutrient profile heart is also considered an organ meat, though technically it is a muscle. Cube and use in veggie mix.

MEATY BONES
----Pork necks, lamb necks, beef tails--can trim tails if very fatty.

----Chicken necks, backs, wings, quarters (better than thighs, they have half-backs attached for better calcium content and tooth cleaning action). Feed chicken parts with the skin for fats. If wieght loss is desired, the skin can be removed, or partially removed. If excessively fatty, skin or fat can be partially removed. Backs particularly are fatty.

----Turkey backs and tails, turkey necks. Turkey necks are skinless so are low in fat. Some dogs have problems with them if they try swallowing them whole, either through choking or causing obstruction in the intestine, so they should be used with care. They can be fed cut up into pieces. Turkey leg bones are too hard and we do not use them.

OTHER PROTIENS
----Eggs---One raw egg per day in veggie mix. Excellent food, supplying the highest possible quality protein (eggs are the gold standard of protiens) as well as lecithin, a crucial nutrient, vitamins, and some essential fatty acids. For info about feeding whole raw eggs, click here.

-----Ricotta cheese---Has a much better calcium:phosphorus ratio than cottage cheese,  higher than  yoghurt or cottage cheese in calcium. Lower in folic acid than yoghurt and cottage cheese.

-----Yoghurt---Has a better calcium:phosphorus ratio than cottage cheese and is higher in calcium, also is partially digested and has beneficial microorganisms. Whole milk yoghurt can usually be found and is preferrable to low fat or non-fat for most dogs.

-----Cottage cheese---A quality protein, but high in sodium so not for dogs requiring a low sodium diet. Low fat is better than non-fat for most dogs. Does not have a calcium phosphorus ratio that will enable it to contribute calcium to the diet to balance phosphorus levels in other foods.

-----Canned mackerel and sardines---High in Omega-3 fatty acids. High in salt.

VEGGIES----A wide variety. All seem to digest with food processing except carrots which would be better pureed. These should be FRESH, not canned. Frozen veggies suffer less vitamin loss than canned. Heat from canning destroys enzymes and vitamins. Add more fresh raw veggies for overweight dogs.

Vegetables-- Leaf lettuce, colards, kale, bean sprouts, broccoli, cabbage, dandelion greens, mustard greens, parsley, beet tops, celery, eggplant, squashes (baked), raw  squashes, zucchini, many others. Fruits--apples, pears, melons, bananas, others.

STARCHES---The diet is comprised mainly of meats, raw meaty bones, and veggies, with little or no starch. Starches can be used for young active dogs and dogs outside in cold weather a lot. Starches don't exceed about 1/4 of their diet, being perhaps ½ cup added to their veggie mix. Starches used are rolled steamed oats, barley or wheat soaked in buttermilk, or cooked rice; or a piece of toast or a large shredded wheat brick or two. Older, arthritic, and allergic dogs get little or no starches. There is no requirement for carbohydrates in the dog's diet, providing the diet is high enough in glycogenic protiens and fat to fullfill the energy requirements. Energy comes from fat and protien rather than from carbohydrates.
IMPORTANT TO NOTE---Gestation and lactation may be exceptions to this!!  Although it has been shown that it is *possible* to feed for gestation with no starches in the diet, if high enough levels of  the particular amino acids required for gluconeogenesis are present in the diet, smaller livers with lower glycogen content, lower brain wieghts, and low blood glucose have been found in whelps of mothers on carbohydarate-free diets, so some starches should be included. Nutrition of the Dog and Cat, Waltham symposium #7, has two excellent papers dealing with this subject. The NRC guide also discusses it.

Where to get them!?
Grocery stores supply beef, ground turkey, canned mackerel, organ meats, veggies, as well as eggs, ricotta cheese, yoghurt and cottage cheese. Beef and pork organ meats, (kidneys, livers, thymus), as well as muscle meats such as tongue, heart, and beef tails, and knuckle and rib beef bones, also pork and lamb necks, can sometimes be gotten from local meat processors, or special ordered by a grocery store. Small local butchers who process local farm and game animals may be willing to work with you. Chicken necks, backs, wings and quarters, as well as turkey necks, can be special ordered for you in bulk from many grocery store meat departments. They usually come in 30 to 40 pound cases which can be thawed, split up, and re-frozen. Rabbitries and sheep producers are other sources of meats. In larger cities, places specializing in meats for dog food are springing up, which sell by the case. Check with other local raw feeders about availability. Health food stores are a source of vitamins, oils, kelp, eggs, dairy, grains and more. I've added mail order info for several of the supplements. Farmer's markets supply veggies seasonally. If you are interested in the additional benefits of feeding grass-fed meats and dairy (better fatty acid profiles), here is a link for help in locating producers in your area: http://www.localharvest.org

Natural foods like kelp, though they contain micronutrients such as selenium and zinc, are not standardized and can contain a wide range of each nutrient, from ample all the way through to nothing at all. Each batch can vary. They are therefore not reliable supplements for microminerals. We live in the Pacific Northwest, where soils are low in selenium, and have had trouble with selenium deficiency even while using kelp and other foods that are supposed to contain selenium, because they are too variable a source. Water is high in iron in certain areas, which binds up and  takes out zinc, making a reliable zinc source important. If you are adding raw  muscle meats but not many organ meats, you will need a source of Vit. A and D, B vitamins, and minerals. A mineral source that is standardized, such as a human one, and complete with trace elements, is recommended. There are also several companies currently making a variety of supplements for dogs, some geared toward supplementing home-made diets. Monica Segal's Doggie Diner is one. I have had good luck with MultiMin made by Nutricology, which can be ordered from iHerb online. The University of California at Davis has a canine nutrition support service, which assists with making homemade diets, and they carry a mineral supplement designed to supplement homemade diets. http://nutrition.vetmed.ucdavis.edu/

Supplements vary tremendously, so don't just assume they all have everything you want; read their labels. Check how much calcium is in these supplements, because it can be present or not present. Depending on how significant an amount is in the supplement, your other additions of calcium may have to be altered. Most do not have a significant amount of calcium. Some contain extremely high levels of Vit C, which has been found to raise blood calcium levels, an effect that is undesireable for large breed puppies.

VITAMINS
IMPORTANT TO NOTE---during gestation, lactation, and growth, many vitamin requirements increase to approximately double maintenance levels.  See above notes under Vitamin/Mineral Source regarding the adviseability of adding a quality complete vitamin/mineral supplement to the diet, particularly during these demanding times.

Vitamin C---The dog produces enough Vit C in the liver so that supplementation is not essential, and may even be harmful. Vit C is used for collagen production, which is the matrix for ligaments, bone and teeth. Vitamin C supplementation may be contraindicated in growing dogs of breeds prone to orthopedic disease such as HOD or OCD. It's supplementation has recently been proven to result in relatively higher serum calcium levels, which may significantly diminish the bone resorption that is an essential part of normal healthy bone growth.

Vitamin E---200 IU/day of the d-form for dogs of about 75 to 100 pounds; less for smaller dogs. Try to get this from food as well as from supplements, and look for the natural d- form rather than the synthetic dl- form. Our diet includes 1/4 cup wheat germ every other day for Vit E, kept refrigerated or frozen by the seller as well as by myself after purchase--it's purchased in 25 lb bags delivered refrigerated to the health food store, then kept in the freezer at home. It is a source of B vitamins and  zinc as well.  Vit E capsules of 200 IU are also given. Note: wheat germ is low in calcium and high in phosphorus. Vit E is also in the daily raw egg. Capsules found at health food stores are excellent to use.

B Vitamins---Kidneys, liver (high in folic acid), brewer's or nutritional yeast (high in choline), vegetables, wheat germ. Nutritional yeast is better than brewer's yeast, especially the B vitamin supplemented nutritional yeasts. All of the multi-vitamin-mineral supplements listed above include B Vitamins. Note: Brewer's yeast is low in calcium and high in phosphorus.

Vitamins A and D---Beef and pork liver, about 4 ounces a day 4 or 5 times a week for our 75 to 100 pound dogs. Alternate between liver and kidney, and use spleen, thymus etc when available. Liver also is a good source iron and of folic acid during pregnancy; don't go overboard though because it's also high in Vit A, which can be detrimental in early pregnancy.

MINERALS
*IMPORTANT TO NOTE---Meat, grains and vegetables are almost all low in calcium and high in phosphorus, which is why bone meal, finely ground dried eggshells, or commercial calcium  must be added to the muscle meat/organ meat/veggie mix meals. See "calcium" section below for more specific information.
*IMPORTANT TO NOTE---During gestation, lactation, and growth, many mineral requirements increase to approximately double maintenance levels. See above notes under Vitamin/Mineral Source regarding the advisability of adding a quality complete vitamin/mineral supplement to the diet, particularly during these demanding times.

      ----Calcium---This is essential to add to the veggie and muscle meat portion of a raw diet, which is high in phosphorus and low in calcium. It is not added to raw meaty bone meals which  supply enough calcium in the form of edible bones. If there are no bones or other calcium source such as dairy in the meal, calcium should be added. Calcium is probably the most challenging part of making a diet yourself. Calcium can be added to the diet in the form of dairy products and by feeding raw edible bones; but how much is being added by bones or by dairy, and how much is needed, and how much is too much, are all complicated questions.

The following information on calculating how much calcium to add from various sources is derived from the kidney diet pages of Mary Strauss's Dogaware website:

    - One large eggshell makes about a teaspoon of ground eggshell, which contains about 5500 mg of straight calcium carbonate. 5500 mg of straight calcium carbonate contains 2200 mg elemental calcium. To prepare dried eggshells, you can leave eggshells to air-dry for several days, then grind them in a coffee grinder. They have to be very dry and finely ground to yield the amounts specified here. If they are not finley ground, they come out exactly as they went in, which does your dog no good at all.
    - When feeding a homemade diet with no other calcium included, add 1000 to 1500 mg (1 to 1.5 grams) elemental calcium per pound of food. This amount of elemental calcium would be supplied by 2,750 to 4,000 mg of straight calcium carbonate, such as found in Tums (do not use antacids that also include magnesium, such as Mylanta; Tums is OK). This amount can also be providied by using 1/2 to 3/4 teaspoon of finely ground eggshells, which would supply 1,000 to 1,500 mg elemental calcium.
    - If using calcium citrate, you will need to use more (around 5000 to 8000 mg calcium citrate per pound of food), since calcium citrate contains only about half as much elemental calcium as calcium carbonate does.

Our diet uses 1 level teaspoon of ground eggshells, per 1 pound of food, not including the weight of meaty bones such as chicken quarters. This is a little more than Mary Strauss uses, above. We also use some foods that are high in phosphorus and low on calcium (heart, nutritional yeast, and wheat germ), so this slightly increased amount of calcium helps balance those items in our diet. Because our dogs also eat some bones in chicken quarters (the bone in chicken quarters is not on it's own enough to supply the total calcium needed in the diet), and have fresh gnawing bones provided 1 or 2 times per week, ground eggshells are not their only source of calcium. If your dog is on a diet with no additional calcium sources, you will have to pay exact attention to the amounts you give per pound of food, but it is also easier, because you don't have to wonder what other parts of the diet are adding. You can look up how much calcium is needed by your dog per day by weight in the NRC Guide, and supplement that amount, using eggshells prepared as described above, or using a commercial calcium tablet of known amount.  Blackstrap molasses is very high in calcium and low in phosphorus, and can be used occassionally as a calcium source (1TBN); it's also high in iron.

The ratio of calcium to phosphorus is said to ideally fall within a certain range, roughly between 1:1 ( read as 1 to 1) and 1.5:1 (read as 1.5 to 1), calcium:phosphorus (read as calcium to phosphorus). Most foods are high in phosphorus and low in calcium, so calcium has to be added, both to approach the ideal calcium:phosphorus ratio, and to provide enough calcium in the absolute sense (on an amount-required-per-day basis, stated as mg/kg/day). What's required daily varies depending on whether it's for maintenance or growth or lactation. The absolute amount of calcium fed is probably more important than getting the calcium:phosphorus ratio exactly right, though the ratio should be kept in mind. However, if a large amount of calcium is added to a large breed puppy's diet, in efforts to achieve the ideal ratio, it may prove to be too much calcium in absolute amount given per day, and can result in orthopedic disease. This is why we don't add more than 1 teaspoon per pound of meat fed to a puppy.  We roughly follow the 1985 NRC Guide's amount required per day per unit weight, rather than by trying to achieve a specific calcium:phosphorus ratio.

To give an idea of just how very far many foods are from the desired 1.5:1 ratio, here are some examples. Take a look at beef heart, yellow corn and wheat germ in particular:

Oatmeal, 1:9
Shredded wheat, 1:9
Brown rice, 1:7
Wheat germ, 1:25
Brewer's yeast, 1:6
Corn, yellow, 1:42
Beef, ground, 1:14
Beef, heart, 1:42
Poultry, boneless, 1:14
Rabbit, 1:13
Venison, 1:30

Most dairy products have much better Ca:Ph ratios, with ricotta cheese and yoghurt being particularly high in favor of calcium.

We don't use bone meal as our calcium source for the following reasons. The calcium amount in bone meal varies significantly between different manufacturers, and even between batches from the same manufacturer. Bone meal generally has about two parts calcium to one part phosphorus; therefore it is not as effective at balancing calcium with phosphorus, and more must be added than from a straight elemental calcium source. Eggshells are made mostly of calcium carbonate, and have about twice as much calcium per unit wieght as bone meal does. Bone meal is denser, so it wieghs more than ground eggshells which vary depending on how dry they are when ground. The drier they are, the finer they grind and the denser they are. Dicalcium phosphate has two parts calcium to one part phosphorus, similar to bone meal. When adding bone meal or dicalcium phosphate, you are adding phosphorus as well as calcium, so it's not as effective for balancing calcium and phosphorus as it would be to add calcium alone (such as calcium carbonate, calcium gluconate, or calcium citrate).

All minerals are affected by interactions with other minerals and components of foods. The link below is to a discussion of calcium metabolism, food interactions, and effects of too little or too much during growth. It also has a table showing the variable amounts of calcium in different forms of calcium supplements.
Calcium-Providing Dogs with the Right Balance during Growth and Reproduction

Recent work by Dr. Richardson at Hills Science Diet indicates that absolute amounts of calcium fed are more important than the calcium:phosphorus ratio is, and that too much calcium can cause problems for large breed puppies. This is a must-read for those raising large-breed puppies. Here is a link for the Richardson and Toll article on calcium, diet, and large breed puppy growth:
Relationship of Nutrition to Developmental Skeletal Disease in Young Dogs

     ----Magnesium---May be low in a homemade diet, can be supplied in the multi-mineral supplement. Found in kelp and bone meal, but may not be enough to supply the daily needs.

     ----Iron---Liver, heart and kidneys are high in iron. Blackstrap molassis also contains iron. Not usually supplemented for. Neonates suffering from diarhea can become anemic and low in iron.

     ----Manganese---May be low in a homemade diet, can be supplied in the multi-mineral supplement.

      ----Zinc and Copper---Lack of zinc can cause infectious dermatitis especially in puppies. Zinc and copper have an inter-relationship, and both should be supplemented together. Beef tongue is high in zinc. Chicken is low in zinc and copper.

     ----Kelp (iodine, microminerals)---1 tspn ~ 4 grams. 1/2 tspn per day for a 60 to 90 pound dog. Supplies iodine, calcium, magnesium, and trace elements, improves pigmentation. Though useful, do not count on kelp and alfalfa alone to supply an adaquate amount of trace minerals. Also, it is possible to give excess iodine using kelp, which can adversely affect the thyroid gland.

     ----Alfalfa leaf meal (microminerals)---Supplies many vitamins and minerals, complimentary to the ones in kelp. 1 tsn ~ 2 grams. 1 tspn per day for a 60 to 90 pound dog. Though useful, do not count on alfalfa and kelp alone to supply an adaquate amount of all trace minerals.

Nutricology/Allergy Research makes a MultiMin that can be used; but it's high in some minerals and low in others. I supplement magnesium, manganese, phosphorus, selenium, iodine, zinc, and calcium with individual supplements for each.

OILS--ESSENTAIL FATTY ACID SOURCE
IMPORTANT TO NOTE---When oils are added, antioxidants to protect them from oxidation and destructive free radical formation in the body must be added too, such as Vit. E and selenium.  PUFA, or polyunsaturated fatty acids, particularly the essential fatty acid Omega 3 and Omega 6's, aid the immune sytem, nervous sytsem, and skin; but require the addition of larger amounts of Vit E, an antioxidant vitamin. Otherwise blood levels of Vit E can become depleted. This is especially important during pregnancy and lactation. Chicken supplies Omega 6's. Omega 3 essential fatty acids are the ones most likely to be in short supply. Therefore the best supplemental oils are those high in Omega 3's. The best Omega-3 sources are animal sources. Plant sources such as flax seed oil have to be converted for use by animals, and are not always converted by the animal.

     ----Fish body oil or wild salmon oil (not cod liver oil)---The best fatty acid supplement, in that it supplies essential fatty acids in a more directly useable form by the body (EPA/DHA) than plant sources do. Because of PCB and heavy metal contamination of ocean fish, choose brands certified tested free of contaminants if possible--Carlson Super Omega 3 Fish Oils, HAC Mega Omega (available from B-naturals), The Zone fish oil caps. (Available from the Nutrition web site or through the Vitamin Shoppe web site.) Walmart's brand is also filtered and tested.

    ----Olive oil---Less expensive than flaxseed, high in unsaturated fats but not high in Omega 3's, so not as beneficial a fatty acid profile. Keep refridgerated. Cold-pressed is best.

     ---Cod liver oil (Do not use, or use with caution) is medium in Omega 3's, but very high in Vit A and D. Not for use in pregnancy because high levels of Vit A can have adverse effects on the fetus. It can be useful for lactating bitches if a Vit D deficiency exists in the diet. I would not recommend it's use for growing puppies, because the high levels of Vit D can facilitate too much calcium uptake. Large breed puppies that are prone to developmental joint diseases need to avoid  high levels of calcium, as well as high energy intake (high calories)---so, skip the cod liver oil for them, unless the diet lacks other Vit D sources. Liver supplies ample Vit A and D in our diet, so we don't use cod liver oil. If the diet doesn't contain liver, cod liver oil can be used, check NRC guidelines to determine how much for your size dog.

      ---Other oils, for calories---Can be added to a raw diet if more fats are needed by an individual dog. Add 1 or 2 TBN to meals low in fat. Olive oil, or real butter. Avoid partially hydrogenated oils, vegetable oil, corn oil, peanut oil, etc. Read "Fats That Heal, Fats That Kill", by Udo Erasmus. Don't forget to add antioxidants along with polyunsatuated fats.

EDIBLE BONES---
IMPORTANT TO NOTE---BONES SHOULD NEVER BE FED COOKED.
Cooked bones are brittle, and can splinter and cause perforation in the gut.
Raw edible bones are bones that the dog is abled to consume. They include the bones  in pork necks or lamb necks;  beef tails; the bones in chicken, especially in necks or backs, but also in quarters; and the "spongy" bone in cut-through knuckles (also used for recreation) which dogs consume.
The percentage of the diet made up of raw bones is open to debate. Trends are for less than was being used a few years ago. Our diet uses one meal with cubed or ground meats without bone, in which calcium is added either through dairy products like cottage cheese or yoghurt (mainly used for puppies), or calcium carbonate or ground eggshell added at 3/4 to 1 teaspoon (2,200mg calcium) per 1 pound of food. We use whole chicken quarters for dinners, not necks or backs which are extremely high in calcium and fat. Quarters have a greater proportion of actual meat to the bone and fat, than necks or backs have. I do not consider necks or backs to be something to use routinely in the diet due to their being high in calcium and fat and little else. Their only advantage is cheapness.

GNAWING BONES (RECREATIONAL BONES)---
IMPORTANT TO NOTE---BONES SHOULD NEVER BE FED COOKED.
Cooked bones are brittle, and can splinter and cause perforation in the gut.
Essential for dental health, to help prevent boredom and destructive chewing, and to add calcium and other minerals to the diet. These are for chewing on, but they should be bones that can be partially or even wholey consumed. They should consist of cut-through knuckle bones where the dog can access the spongy bone and eat it, rib bones, pork neck bones, beef tail bones, etc. Pork necks and beef tails are cut into peices, not fed whole, as they can be quite large. The hard shank bones from cows, or the shanks cut into ringlets, are not used. The typical cow leg shank bones are hard, tend to break teeth, and are of very little use for either gnawing/tooth cleaning or for calcium consumption because most dogs are unable to actually eat them, but can only lick out some of the marrow. Short pieces of these leg shank bones can form open rings once the marrow is removed, which can get stuck as a ringlet around the dog's lower jaw. Pork shank bones tend to get stuck on teeth. Fresh chewing bones should be given once or twice per week. They help prevent heart and kidney disease from infected gums and eliminate the need for veterinary tooth cleaning, as well as adding calcium, phosphorus, magnesium and other minerals. For true effectiveness at cleaning teeth, a few of these bones should always be available for the dog to chew as he or she feels the need. Giving them once or twice a week for a few hours only will not provide enough chewing to keep teeth really clean.

ODDS-N-ENDS---OTHER SUPPLEMENTS--The necessity of the following will depend on the diet itself.

Probiotics---Beneficial bacteria, particularly useful in newborns, in cases of food allergies, when antibiotics have been used, or in kibble diets. There are many makers---be careful, as the bacteria need to have high counts and be viable (live) or they won't do any good. They should be from either a refrigerated source, or a company whose product has been well tested for viability. Two well known brands are Bene-bac and Fast-track, both gels, available from KV Vet supplies and other suppliers. Jarrow makes a probiotic for dogs, as so several other companies. How well they work seems to vary from dog to dog.

Apple Cider Vinegar---Contains 90 nutrients, helps with arthritis and inflamation, has to be in the raw form. 1 TBN per day.

Wheat germ (Vit E, zinc), blackstrap molasses (calcium, iron), brewer's yeast (B vitamins, choline), eggshell (calcium)----see other notes on use.

FOOD BY WEIGHT--fresh food is aproximately 70% water, and kibble is 10% percent water, so kibble and fresh food cannot be compared on a weight for weight basis.

Gnawing bones need to be supplied fresh once or twice weekly. They are required during teething, but are also required lifelong. They help prevent heart and kidney disease from infected gums and eliminate the need for veterinary tooth cleaning, as well as adding calcium and phosphorus. We use beef ribs, beef knuckles that have been sawn through so the spongy bone inside the joint is available for the dog to gnaw and ingest, and beef tails. Whole beef tails are cut into 2 to 3 parts, depending on the size of the tail.

Muscle meat---cubed or ground, see regarding amounts below; usually between 1 and 3 cups for my borzoi.

1/2 cup grain---prefer rolled oats soaked in buttermilk or hot water, or cooked rice .

4 ounces organ meat--liver, heart, and kidneys alternated, others such as thymus and spleen as available. Too much liver can cause loose stools.

1 raw egg

1/4 to 1/3 cup food processed veggies

1 tspn per pound ground eggshell, or a supplemental calcium (1,650 to 2,200 mg elemental calcium) per 1 pound of fresh meat and veggies.

1/4 cup refridgerated raw wheat germ, alternated every other day with 1 TBN nutritional yeast

1 TBN olive oil

Vit E 200 IU d-alphatocopherol form

A multi-mineral supplement containing micro-minerals selenium, manganese, magnesium, copper and zinc.

1/2 tspn kelp

1000 mg fish body oil (optional)

1 TBN raw apple cider vinegar (optional)

1 tspn alfalfa leaf meal (optional)
 

Mix above ingredients, and add muscle meat.  Muscle meats are cubed and stirred into the mix. Finely ground eggshells are added, 1 level tsn per pound of food. The amount of meat depends on the dog. My adult bitches average 65 pounds. They usually get 1 to 2 cups muscle meat.  My adult males average 85 pounds, and usually get 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 cups muscle meat. Remember, use at least 50% red meats rather than all chicken. Red meat can be used in the main meal, and chicken can be used as the secondary meal. This results in a good division of red meat and poultry.
 

SECONDARY MEAL----Adult bitches get 2/3 to one whole small chicken quarter (I divide roughly in 3rds at the joints). Older housedog girls may need only a drumstick. Adult males usually get an entire large chicken quarter. 

BASIC INFORMATION----(specifics and recipes are below)
---Quality of the diet is important. Puppies need high quality protiens with excellent levels of biological availabilty and digestabilty (meats, eggs, dairy). They also require an abundance of essential fatty acids for their developing brains, nervous sytems, and immune sytems. These are found in the most easily utilized form in fish body oil (NOT cod liver oil). The protiens and fats should be fresh and of high quality. The essential fatty acids must be taken along with antioxidants such as Vit E and selenium; otherwise they will become oxidized (rancid) within the body. Dairy, raw bone, and finely ground eggshell supply minerals necessary for bone to grow properly. Vit D is required to aid in calcium absorption. Vit A, B vitamins, minerals and trace elements are required. A multi-mineral supplement that includes trace minerals selenium, manganese, zinc and copper should be used.

---Puppies eat essentially the same things adults do, with the exception of raw meaty bone meals. Puppy meals usually have cubed or ground meats without bone, and calcium is added through dairy products like ricotta cheese and yoghurt. Ricotta cheese has the best calcium:phosphorus ratio, followed by yoghurt. Cottage cheese does not have a favorable calcium:phosphorus ratio so is not useful for supplementing calcium in the diet. For bones to add calcium, they  must be ones puppies can ingest, such as from chicken necks, chopped up chicken backs, or chicken with the bones ground in. Bones they chew on, but don't ingest, don't count as part of their diet. Puppies can't effectively chew up and ingest substantial bones such as those in chicken quarters or large gnawing bones until they get their second teeth in.

--- Gnawing bones need to be supplied especially during teething, but are needed lifelong. They help prevent heart and kidney disease from infected gums and eliminate the need for veterinary tooth cleaning, as well as adding calcium, phosphorus, magnesium and other minerals.

---At 6 months old, puppies have their adult teeth and most of their growth, are capable of eating bone in chicken quarters and in gnawing bones, and can be fed the same as adults.

AMOUNTS FED---Puppies eat a larger proportion of their own body weight per day than adults do. At weaning, they may eat as much as  8% or 10% of their body weight in a day. Soon, at a few weeks old, this drops to somewhere around 5% to 7%, and continues gradually to decrease after that. Adults eat about 2% to 3% of their body weight in fresh foods per day. Puppies' maximum rate of growth occurs from weaning through the first 6 months. It is fastest at weaning, and gradually drops toward 6 months of age. Though the absolute weight gain is larger, the weight gain in proportion to their size gets consistently smaller. Fast growth is to be avoided for large breed puppies.

RATE OF GROWTH
For my breed, in which bitches mature at an average of 60 to 70 pounds and dogs at an average of 80 to 95 pounds, a growth rate of roughly 10 pounds per month is about right for the first 3 months or so, slowing somewhat around 4 months, and tapering off to about 5 to 6 pounds per month as they approach 5 to 6 months of age. Growth rate continues to slow until maturity. Puppies should be weighed weekly, and later on monthly, to determine if they are growing at a reasonable rate for their breed. If they are growing too fast, food amounts can be reduced; if they are growing too slowly, food amounts can be increased. Body condition should be monitored; puppies should not be fat. The ribs should be easily felt, but not completely without cover. They should not be extremely thin with no reserves, and they should feel muscular under the hand.

NOT RECOMMENDED
VITAMIN C---The dog produces enough Vit C in the liver so that supplementation is not essential, and may even be harmful in the case of certain puppies.  Vitamin C supplementation may be contraindicated in growing dogs of breeds prone to orthopedic disease such as HOD or OCD. It's supplementation has recently been proven to result in relatively higher serum calcium levels, which may diminish the bone resorption that is an essential part of normal healthy bone growth.

COD LIVER OIL --- is high in Omega 3's, but also very high in Vit A and D. Not for use in pregnancy because high levels of Vit A can have adverse effects on the fetus. I would not recommend it's use for growing puppies, because the high levels of Vit D can facilitate too much calcium uptake. Large breed puppies that are prone to developmental joint diseases need to avoid overly high levels of calcium, as well as overly high energy intake (high calories)---so, skip the cod liver oil for them, unless the diet lacks other Vit D sources.

CALCIUM CONCERNS FOR PUPPIES
LARGE BREED INFO----In the past, high protien levels were mistakenly suspected of causing bone and joint problems. More recent research indicates that even very high protien levels are not a problem in normal healthy dogs. Too high a total energy level (too many calories), too high a calcium level and too fast a growth rate are now known to be the problem factors in developmental bone diseases of large breed puppies. The concern with large breed puppies is to avoid overfeeding, avoid too much calcium, and to keep growth slow. However, they do need *enough* calcium to grow their developing bones and teeth with, and *enough* energy to grow and thrive on. They should be in lean, not rolly-polly or pudgy, body condition; but *not* in emaciated body condition. Their ribs should be easily felt, but not completely without cover. They should carry good muscle and feel muscular under the hand.

MUST-READ ARTICLES FOR LARGE BREED PUPPY OWNERS
For information regarding feeding large breed puppies, Dr. Daniel C. Richardson, Director, Advanced Research Hill's Pet Nutrition, Inc., Topeka, Kansas, has written several excellent papers.  Contact him at Hill's for more information or copies of his published research---it is invaluable. Here are pertinent  links:

1) Skeletal Disease in Young Dogs. This is a super article, and should be required reading for anyone growing large breed dogs; by Drs. Richardson and Toll
Relationship of Nutrition to Developmental Skeletal Disease in Young Dogs

2) This links to a discussion of calcium metabolism, and effects of too little or too much during growth. Also has a table showing the variable amounts of calcium in different forms of calcium supplements.
Calcium-Providing Dogs with the Right Balance during Growth and Reproduction

3) Synopsis of a study done on Great Dane puppies using three different calcium levels with the rest of the diet held constant.
Dietary Mineral Levels Affect Bone Development in Great Dane Pups

4) Successfully Raising the Large Breed Puppy, by Danial P. Carey DVM and Allan J Lepine, PhD, the Iams Co.
http://www.iams.com/es_US/data_root/breeder_section/GrowingPains.pdf

5) Eukanuba site with information pertinent to optimal growth of large breed puppies
http://208.173.184.68/Portugal/dx3.htm

6) Info regarding effects of overfeeding during growth from Advanced Pet Nutrition
http://www.advancepetfood.com.au/speedyvet/library.asp?page=18

At partial weaning, which starts slowly at about 3 weeks of age, we use meats and whole milk yoghurt at a 1:1 ratio (50% dairy), plus raw egg yolks and pediatric vitamins, with no other calcium added. Gradually the rest of the diet below is introduced, with cereals being introduced last. Dairy is gradually reduced to about a 1:2 dairy:meats ratio, or about 33%. The puppies are usually still nursing, in a gradually diminishing amount, until 6 to 7 weeks of age. After organ meats, Vit E, and a multi-mineral supplement (must be a powder for mixing) are introduced one at a time, the pediatric vitamins are dropped.

At about 8 weeks old the completely weaned puppies are fed three times per day, eating 21 meals per week; and the dairy: meat ratio is roughly 1 part dairy to 3 parts meats/cereals/veggies (25%  dairy). Calcium amounts supplied by the dairy portion can be looked up in a contents of foods table (mg per cup), and compared to the NRC guide for growth (mg/kg/day), to be sure the dairy portion is adding not too much and not too little calcium for the size puppy being fed.The meat is a GROUND MEAT AND ORGANS MIX. This meat can be ground at home; our mix consists of beef or turkey 2 parts; beef tongue 1 part; beef or pig heart 1 part; beef or pig kidney 1 part; beef or pig liver 1 part. The organ meats supply Vit A and D, B vitamins, and minerals, and heart supplies taurine. Ground eggshell is added 1 teaspoon per pound.

At 4 months old, the puppies are switched to two meals per day, eating 14 meals per week. The dairy proportion is reduced to 20% or less.  This diet, shown below, is similar to Dr. Pitcairn's Growth Diet C, in his book referenced in the book list at the beginning of the page, with some differences. Dr. Pitcairn's diet calls for precise, analyzed amounts of added calcium.  In the diet below, calcium is supplied by some dairy, some bone, and by the finely ground eggshells that are part of the GROUND MEAT AND ORGANS MIX . Ground eggshells, like calcium carbonate, add no phosphorus, unlike bone meal and di-calcium phosphate. The puppies are always given access to gnawing bones, and as their adult teeth come in, they chew off and ingest progressively more of this bone.

After the second teeth are in, at about 6 months old, dairy is phased out except for occasional meals. The puppies are better abled to eat whole chicken quarters and to ingest their recreational bones once the second teeth are in. Calcium is added to the diet in the same way as it is for an adult, at 1 teaspoon of finely ground eggshells per pound of food. In this way the puppy diet is gradually transformed into the adult diet.

An alternative to this would be to use the NRC Guide to calculate how much calcium per day a puppy of a given size requires for growth, re-calculating as the puppy grows, and to supply that amount in the form of supplemental calcium added to a diet without bones or much other calcium content.

As the puppies grow during weaning and after, increase the meat and veggie portions at a faster rate than the dairy portions. In this way, the dairy to meat/veggies/cereal ratio is gradually reduced from about 1:2 (33% dairy) at 4 weeks old, towards about 1:3 (25% dairy) at 8 weeks old..

BREAKFAST---(the following is for more than one puppy)
-1 cup ricotta cheese
-1 cup full-fat yoghurt
-1 cup finely ground veggies
-3 to 4 cups ground/cubed meat---turkey, heart, tongue, beef. Can use the GROUND MEAT AND ORGANS MIX. This meat can be ground at home; our mix consists of beef or turkey 2 parts; beef tongue 1 part; beef or pig heart 1 part; beef or pig kidney 1 part; beef or pig liver 1 part. The organ meats supply Vit A and D, B vitamins, and minerals, and heart supplies taurine. Ground eggeshell is added 1 teaspoon per pound and mixed in thoroughly.
-1 multi-mineral, including trace minerals such as selenium and zinc and copper, scaled to the total weight of the puppies you are feeding, ground to powder and blended in. If you feeding just one puppy, you do not have to grind and blend in the multi-mineral (if it's in pill form), but can just divide it and feed how much is needed for the one puppy each day according to his or her weight. This multimineral shouldn't add more than a small amount of additional calcium.
-1 Vit E capsules, 400 IU, cut open and squeezed out and blended in.
-2  1000mg fish body oil (not cod liver oil) capsules, cut open, squeezed out and blended in.

LUNCH--(for more than one puppy)
-2 cups cereal---rolled oats soaked in buttermilk or yoghurt
-1 cup meat, ground or cubed.
-2 raw eggs
-1 TBN olive or cold pressed canola oil

DINNER---(for more than one puppy)
-1 cup rice or cooked yellow squash
-1 cup dairy
-2 cups meat
-1 or 2 raw eggs
-1 Vit E capsule 400IU cut open, squeezed out and blended in.
-2  1000 mg fish body oil capsules cut open, squeezed out and blended in.

If you want to use a kibble meal, you can soak a high quality kibble in water or broth, and add a raw egg, or a little ground meat, and a Vit E capsule and fish oil capsules. Kibble has enough calcium and does not need more added, so don't soak in milk.

The Puppy Diet Recipe---4 months and up--fed 2 times per day
NOTE---This is not an analyzed diet; it's simply one that has worked for us. It may not be ideal for the growth of all puppies or all breeds.
The recipe is scaled up as the puppies become larger. Dairy is a smaller proportion of the diet, about 1 part in 5 (20%) or less; calcium is added to the GROUND MEAT AND ORGANS MIX. They get fresh gnawing bones 2 times per week..The incisors are coming in, and puppies can take in a small amount of bone now when chewing recreational bones. When the puppies have their second teeth at about 6 months old and can eat chicken quarters, whole quarters can be used for one meal.

These amounts are for one of our borzoi puppies.

-1/2 cup yoghurt or ricotta cheese, alternated

-1 cup GROUND MEAT AND ORGANS MIX. This meat can be ground at home; our mix consists of  ground beef or turkey 2 parts; beef tongue 1 part; beef or pig heart 1 part; beef or pig kidney 1 part; beef or pig liver 1 part.  Add 1 tspn finely ground eggshell per pound to the ground meat and organs mix, mixing it in thoroughly. The organ meats supply Vit A and D, B vitamins, and minerals, and heart supplies taurine.  1 8-ounce measuring cup equals 1/2 pound of fresh food. 2 cups equals 1 pound.

-1 raw egg

-1/2 cup veggies

-1/2 cup starch such as cooked rice, cooked yellow squash, or uncooked rolled oats soaked in buttermilk

-1/4 cup refrigerated raw wheat germ, alternated every other day with 1 TBN nutritional yeast

-200 IU Vit E---amount per puppy

-1,000 mg fish body oil

-1 TSN to 1 TBN olive oil

To this is added, according to puppy weight, the multi-mineral which needs to include trace elements such as zinc, copper and selenium.

If you want to use a kibble meal, you can soak a high quality kibble in water or broth, and add a raw egg, or a little ground meat, and a Vit E capsule and fish oil capsules. Kibble has enough calcium and does not need more added, so don't soak in milk.

It is just a short step from this diet, to the adult diet: eliminate the dairy except occassionally; start to use a variety of cubed meats and cubed organ meats, rather than the GROUND MEAT AND ORGANS MIX.
 
 

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